After a long afternoon filled with thought-provoking spectacles and peer-led presentations, Hannah, Lauren and I decided to break away from the larger group to partake in an adventure of our own. The time was roughly 5:30 pm and we knew our time was running short as church’s close early. With this in mind, we set off immediately with the pursuit to undergo the quickest route possible to Santa Maria in Trastevere. Due to our fairly close proximity in Piazza del Campidoglio, we decided to take the journey by foot. Within around 20 minutes of casual walking, we made our way into the opening of the Piazza di Santa Maria. The quant public space had a singular fountain at its center that was raised and wrapped with stairs. It seemed to have made for the perfect resting place for locals and tourists alike. We were quick to pinpoint the basilica as it was directly across from where we entered and had large arched openings with ionic columns in between. Statues of popes were equally spaced out along the top railing with a larger golden edifice attached in the background. We entered through an archway and were welcomed by two grand walls containing signs and inscriptions taken from other churches and buildings that no longer remain but such objects preserved. Unfortunately, I am unable to translate Latin and thus can only appreciate the inscriptions for their workmanship and craft rather than linguistic content. After a quick glance of these broad scrapbook-like walls, I decide to enter through the large wooden doors. The door led you directly into the church’s right aisle, allowing all of the light to be shadowed by a large row of columns. Before getting too caught up in the detail, I decided to head to the back of the building and stand in the center so that I can equally see both sides. By taking a step back, I was able to perceive many things at once, rather than honing in on fine details (something that can be overwhelming when you first enter). I noticed that the columns lining both sides of the aisles were not consistent and displayed great diversity. It was understood that much like in S. Francesca Romana (in which we toured earlier that day), these columns were evidence of spoliation as they were taken from many buildings and monuments and repurposed for additional use. Lining the walls directly above them were patterns of alternating mosaics and windows, both in which were the same size and shape as the uniformity is more aesthetically pleasing. Beautifully detailed mosaics were also found across the whole front half of the building covered in lots of gold and much more elaborate as they served as the backdrop to the main altar. The octagonal ceiling was a breathtaking mix of gold and paint with a painting of the assumption of the Virgin at its center. After taking this moment to scan the general space, I set off to walk the perimeter. The decorations and symbols used were ornamental and esthetic following the same basic model for traditional basilicas as this is one of the oldest in Rome. This highly garnished basilica was dazzling with its abundance of gold and mosaics. The three of us separated and spent a good chunk of time simply wandering around and observing/appreciating the beautiful artwork, architecture, and holiness of the space. But alas, we mutually decided it was time to leave it behind and continue onto our next journey - finding some dinner!
(Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, 5/24/19)
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